Dupion Silk: All you need to know
Dupion silk, also known as dupioni, douppioni, or doupioni, is a luxurious silk fabric that is characterized by its unique texture and sheen. This fabric is widely popular for its elegance and durability. Since it’s a fabric made from a natural fiber it is breathable, lightweight and great on the skin. The term “dupion” comes from the French word “doublure,” which means double, referring to the fact that the silk is made from two silk worms that have spun their cocoons together.
Since dupion silk is lightweight and lustrous, it has applications across a wide variety of products. It is predominantly used for garments like formal wear, traditional Indian sarees and home furnishings. In this guide, we will take you through the process of making dupion silk, its characteristics, testing the authenticity of the silk and how to care for this fabric.
How is silk made?
The production of any fabric involves a few steps and may vary based on the fabric that is being manufactured. Here’s a quick overview of what that process looks like:
Rearing of silkworms:
It all starts with the silk worms! The larvae are placed on rearing trays and are fed with mulberry leaves and due to this it is commonly known as the mulberry silkworm.
Forming the cocoon:
After about 24 days of feeding on mulberry leaves, the worms are ready to transform into pupa. They start to secrete a liquid using special salivary glands. This secretion solidifies into a thin silk thread when it comes in contact with the air. With this they spin their cocoons and begin the metamorphosis.
Harvesting:
The cocoons are then harvested by hand to prevent any damage. It is then sorted based on its quality. Some cocoons are entangled and some are deemed unusable. The cocoons that can be used are then put into boiling water to soften the cocoon and the silk threads, while the pupa is still inside. This is why silk is not considered vegan. However in recent times there are new silk varieties being developed called “peace silk”. More on that later.
Reeling:
Reeling is the process of turning cocoons into silk yarn. A single silk thread from one cocoon is too thin to be used on its own. In order to make a silk thread strong enough to use, about 6-8 cocoon threads are pulled simultaneously to make one strong silk yarn. Depending on the strength and quality of yarn needed, the number of cocoons reeled together are anywhere between 2-20.
Twisting:
Once the reeling is completed, the yarn is strong enough to be used. However, depending on the fabric that needs to be weaved, one may choose to increase the strength of the yarn. To do this, 2 or more silk yarn threads are twisted together to make it extremely strong and durable. After twisting the yarn is ready for dyeing.
Weaving:
This is the last stage in the making of silk fabric. The fabric is weaved using a higher quality yarn for the warp (the length of the fabric) and the lower quality yarn for the weft (the width of the fabric). The warp needs to have a high quality yarn to prevent the yarn from breaking when the weft is being weaved. If the thread breaks in the warp, then there will be defects in the fabric produced. There are innumerable types of weaves available that form several types of fabrics like charmeuse, chiffon, georgette etc.
How is dupion silk made?
Now that you have an understanding of how silk is made, the question is how is dupion silk made?
In dupion silk the warp (the length of the fabric) uses a high quality silk yarn, however, the weft (the width of the fabric) uses yarn that is drawn from entangled cocoons. Due to this, the fabric has a unique texture formed by the slubs in the yarn used in the weft of the fabric.
The slubs are caused by the inconsistencies in the silk yarn, which give the fabric its distinctive texture. The irregularities also cause the fabric to reflect light in different ways, creating a shimmering effect.
What are the characteristics of Dupion Silk?
Dupion silk is known for its distinct features and unique properties including its unique texture, its shine and its versatility. Let’s discuss some of these characteristics in detail:
Unique Texture and Appearance
As we’ve covered earlier, dupion silk is produced using fine yarn in the warp and uneven yarn reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft, creating a tightly woven fabric with a highly-lustrous surface and a crisp handle. This fabric also features a higher slub (cross-sectional irregularity) count, making it slightly thicker and heavier-textured compared to other silk fabrics.
Iridescent Effect and Versatility
Dupion silk is often woven with different colored threads scattered through the warp and weft, resulting in an iridescent effect similar to, but not as pronounced as, shot silk taffeta. This technique adds depth and dimension to the fabric, making it suitable for various designs, including plaid and striped patterns.
Durability
Thanks to its dual-thread weave, dupion silk is considered one of the most durable natural fabrics. It is also environmentally friendly, as it is made from natural resources and requires minimal chemical processing during production.
Comfort and Luxury
Dupion silk is highly regarded for its comfort and luxurious feel, making it a popular choice for special occasions and high-end fashion.
Explore our wide variety of silk fabrics now!
Caring for Dupion Silk
Proper care is essential to maintain the appearance and longevity of dupion silk. Here are some tips on how to care for this luxurious fabric:
Cleaning
Dry-cleaning dupion silk is the ideal way to care for this delicate fabric. It helps preserve the fabric’s texture, color, and luster. However, if you need to hand wash the fabric, use cold water and a mild detergent, and avoid wringing or twisting the fabric to prevent damage.
Ironing
When ironing dupion silk, use a low heat setting and place a clean, damp cloth between the iron and the fabric. This method will help prevent scorching and maintain the fabric’s smoothness and luster.
Storage
Store your dupion silk garments and furnishings in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. Use a breathable garment bag or cover the garment with a thin paper to protect the fabric from dust and moisture.
Is dupion silk vegan and environmentally friendly?
As mentioned earlier, dupion silk is made from sustainable resources and requires minimal chemical processing. The production of dupion silk primarily relies on the cultivation of silkworms and the use of natural dyes, making it a more eco-friendly option than synthetic fabrics.
However the production of silk involves killing the silkworm while inside the cocoon. This does not make it vegan. However in recent years, there have been advancements in the process of harvesting silk. Silk farmers are now able to produce peace silk or ahimsa silk. There are primarily two types of peace silk: eri silk and peace mulberry silk. In eri silk, the worm is allowed to metamorphose into a moth and is allowed to escape before the reeling process begins, making it a great vegan option. In peace mulberry silk, the farmer makes small cuts in the cocoon to allow the moth to escape while preserving the cocoon for reeling of the silk threads.
If you prefer an environmentally friendly silk, peace silk or ahimsa silk is your best option.
Conclusion
The production of silk is a beautiful natural fabric and is labor intensive in its production. Using this material would mean helping many families earn a living right from the farmers, manufacturers, weavers and the garment manufacturers. There are many villages in India that are known for the production of silk fabric and everytime this fabric is sold, these silk farmers earn a living! It is a better alternative to synthetic fabrics since it is natural, breathable, lightweight, hypoallergenic and feeds the families of silk farmers and many others involved in the process of producing silk.
